Vilna Street originated at the Town west Entrance Tower (STOLB). The street ended at the West Side of the Market Square. From the market's East Side, Minsk Street sprawl out, it crossed the wooden bridge on the Volozhynka river shallow stream and than climbed to the hills out of town.
In Vilna Street among mostly Jewish owned wooden houses, stood the Pravoslavnaya Russian TSERKOV (church) and our family dwelling, both of them built from tree trunks. They were located near a picturesque water pond. The Market Square was dominated by the enormous imposing Polish KOSTIEL.
On both sides of the Market, where peasants from the surrounding Volozhyn villages used to sell their farm products, shops were established, most of them were Jewish owned. AROPTSU, on the so-called "Yiddish slope" next to the Volozhynka stream, dwellings, stores and small workshops were located.
On the southern side of the Market and Aroptsu, spread out the elegant Estate of Graph Tishkevitch, the landlord of the town and the surrounding areas.
A hundred meters north of the market was the location of the famous Yeshive, Volozhyn's prize and glory.
However time came at the end of the nineteen's century when Mister Heller, the notable wood merchant from Berlin, bought a great part of Graph Tyshkevitch's forest, employment became widely available and some prosperity become visible in the area.
My father, Hirsh Malkin, Heller's Wood Works general manager, established in Belokorets (a village 3 Kilometers from Volozhin) the enterprise's main office, the CONTOR. The peasants in the area now reached new vitality, they received credit to buy horses and tools. The GOYIM earned much more money working in the woods. A more decent life style became feasible for most in the Shtetl.
Many citizens became Contor executive employees. Merchants used to buy and then resell hemp (konopla) cultivated by the peasants. In Volozhyn there were established workshops (TREPALNIA) to flutter, clean, sort and pack flax. Some of the flax merchants became wealthy. One of them was Aba Levin. His house and trepalnia were near the Yeshive.
The flax warehouse was equipped with iron shutters for fire protection. Beside the warehouse stood a press. Through the Yeshive windows we could see the flax being packed for transport. Aba Levin sent his children to high school in a big town. His store was in Perelman's stone house on the market. The store clients were the Graph's executives and small landlords living in the vicinity.
Graph Tyshkevitch's lands were another source for the area inhabitants to earn money. The graph owned the land of Volozhyn, the Andopolie and Kapustina farms and the extensive, widespread forest areas. The Graph's office was in the Estate on the town southeast side. Within it stood elegant brick and stone structures, his and his family palace residence as well as his staff habitation buildings. The Estate was planted with numerous kinds of trees, flowers, greenhouses and vast fruit orchards. The Volozhyn Jews used to buy the fruits right of the trees.
Two Bunimovitz brothers lived In Volozhyn. One of them rented the Sakovshchina mill. He was a rich man. In 1905 his house was robbed at midnight by a gang of Jewish anarchist's who expropriated all valuable objects for their foundation to fight the czarist regime.
The second brother rented the Andopolie farm, 10-Km from town. Our family was in friendly relations with the second Bunimovitz brother. We used to visit Andopolie on our horses. The farm seemed to me a paradise. A big squire's POMIESHCHIK house, a huge green grass court, a corn barn, a working and riding horses stable and a large cows and calves shed. They cultivated industrial potatoes, which were delivered to an alcohol plant. The butchers on their way to the Polochany rail station stopped before the plant to let the cattle enjoy the offal so to fatten it before butchering it for meat.
Another source for Volozhyn financial affairs was the YESHIVE, in which d hundreds of young men studied. Almost all of them came from other cities and little towns - SHTETL. Their parents supported most of them, and Volozhyn drew the benefits. In addition messengers SHELIHIM collected much money from many Yeshiva supporters.
The towns' inhabitants economical basis was the commerce. Many stores were placed along the streets and around the Market Square. Some inhabitants earned livelihood as craftsmen. There were KARABELNIKS, they used to go to the villages selling merchandise to peasants and buying from them calves, corn and flax to resell in town.
Excluding the water driven mill and soda water production there was not much industry. So it is easy to understand the SHTETL's curiosity and astonishment, when Michael Polak brought a steam engine and boiler for his mill, situated on the left Volozhynka shore.
It happened on a summer evening, when many horses harnessed to a large platform on big strong wooden wheels carried the steam machine from the rail station through Vilna Street, over the Volozhynka wooden bridge to Michael Polak's mill. Many children followed the engine. The entire population was deeply impressed by the technical wonder.
A generator, installed in Polak's enterprise generated electricity. It was the source of the first electrical light in Volozhyn. Each Friday before the candle benediction a whistle of the steam engine announced the holy Sabbath arriving.
The postman who served the Jewish population "Oyzer der raznoshchik" Zirolnik was, during the whole year apart from Simhas Toyra a quiet, humble, dark-yellowish bearded man, usually he was a reserved man but yet he was an ardent Hossid. By the way, it is a place to note that the vast majority of Volozhyn Jews were Misnagdim, Hassidim could be counted on the fingers of one hand. The other Hassidim, apart from Oyzer, were Kushke der Baker, Shloyme der Hossid (Shepsenwol) and perhaps two or three more. Nevertheless, they had enough Energy, passion and yearning to show us during Simhas Toyra festivities the difference between Hassidim and Misnagdim.
Many inhabitants, particularly the young ones, got together on Saturdays near the post office, hoping to receive some mail. Very few people actually received letters. The majority found in the post courts an opportunity to be together, to meet amongst friends, to have a little chat, to tell a Volozhyn story, to hear some gossip and some recent news.
The first telephone in the area was installed in my parents' home, at Vilna Street, near the water pond- sazhelke. Tyshkevitch's estate offices were connected with their woodland horse riding guardians - "Obyezchiki" by a telephone cable. My father took advantage of that cable to install a telephone connection between his home in town and his forest office - "Contor", in Belokorets. So the first Volozhyn telephone was born.
Meyshke had his workshop in Perelman's big stone building, which stood on the north side of the Market Square. Shops occupied the first floor, one of them was Meyshke's "saloon".
The second barber, Alterke, a small dark Jew worked in another small house on the narrow lane leading from the Perelman's house to the Beys Medrash. To get to Meyshke one had to mount some stairs, to Alterke he descended some steps down, because his flat was in half a cellar with tiny windows and from above one could see what's going on inside.
Alterke did not have a special saloon. In one room stood a chair, on the wall a mirror and beside it a small table with barber's tools. His clients were the poor and less important persons, craftsmen, workers and youngsters. I preferred to cut my hair in Alterke's shop. One was at home there and could fool around, mostly when Alterke suddenly left his client in mid of the hair cutting or shaving and went into the second room to calm one of his crying babies. And there were many criers, each year he had a newborn.
Alterke had a goat. Between Alterke's flat and The Beys Medrash was an empty area, where Alterke used to leave his goat to pasture. Untamed boys we were, we would grasp the animal, bring it near the Beys Medrash entrance, open the door and let the bearded goat walk among the praying Jews wrapped in shawls. We would look for a while to see the confusion, then we would close the door and run away satisfied that we succeeded with our entertaining prank.
Charity In Volozhyn during the period before the First World War, neither organized congregation nor affiliated institutions like a hospital, a bank, or savings and loan existed. There was only a public hostel HEKDESH, where wandering poor Jews found a shelter. Some people used to loan money to others with a little interest. However, some richer families were engaged in charity. It was usually done out of sheer goodness, concurrently they were earning a "Mitzvah."
My mother kept a special fund of few hundred rubles, for this purpose. Before a bazaar or a big market day occurred, our home would be visited by multiple small merchants. Mother loaned everyone 30 - 50 rubles to buy goods. The loans were repaid after reselling the goods with no interest. The shopkeepers did not go themselves to buy the goods. There were Jews that owned horses and carts. After Sabbath they harnessed their "transportation facilitators" and left for Minsk or Smorgon to buy the merchandise and later distributed it in the Volozhyn shops.
On bazaar days Shuker used to put a record player on the entrance steps of his shop and turned the handle. The magic box wonderful music became the best publicity stunt and attention attraction during those days. Shuker was also the single photographer in town.
One of his sons (now in America) started the Zionist activity in Volozhyn. He wrote well and he was connected with Zionists from Vilna. He possessed Keren Kayemet stamps, pictures from Erets Israel and sold them among his comrades.
For one of the Zionist Congresses he received Shekels. I bought one shekel despite my lack of understanding of the Zionist Congress elections procedure.
A joke was told about Motke dem Shousters, who for a cup of cacao transferred from the "bund" to the "SS" party.
My first Rabbi was Nahum der Melamed, quiet and easy- going, yellow bearded Jew. He used to speak slowly in a hushed voice. But he often used his belt over his pupil's buttocks. He did it without any signs of anger, as though he was washing his hands before a meal.
t first, while attending the HEYDER my mother used to come there to take me back to our home. Once she complained before reb Nahum about my naughtiness. He looked at me with his cold eyes and said in a florid style: "If your son is wicked we will be obliged to make a blessing over his CHALAS", he had in mind beating my naked buttocks. My mother did not understand the Rebe's meaning and answered that on each Sabbath Eve she bakes two tiny challas for my blessing. The children broke out laughing, they were teasing me for days later with "challas blessing''.
From Reb Nahum, the "babies" melamed, I passed to Reb Gorelik , and after his emigration to America, I was transferred to Mr. Shwartsberg's heyder. Both of them were higher-level. Melamdim. The Heyder contained eight to ten disciples. The Heyder and the teacher's apartment were in Perelman's big house.
Apart from the little Heyders There was in Volozhyn a Jewish primary school. The school was Founded by "the Jewish Society for Education of Jewish children." The Society was established during the Enlightenment Period - HASKALA. The headquarters were located in St Petersburg and the studies were free. The curriculum included Russian language, Arithmetics, singing and hand crafts for girls. The majority of the pupils were girls. The building was placed opposite the Sazhelke. The manager and his family lived in the school building.
The manager, director Freedman, was a graduate of a teacher's seminary. The Society sent him especially to Volozhyn to manage the school. The language he spoke with his wife was Russian. Freedman was a strange person. Medium height, dark skin with marks of black hair. I say marks, because Freedman shaved not only his beard but also his whole head, during both summer and winter. He was a typical "misanthrope". He had no friends. He never invited anyone over. He always walked alone, without his wife or any other acquaintances. He was teaching the higher grade children (there were two classes only).
He was teaching singing. He accompanied his singing with a six-flanked small harmonica. His playing was very tender. From time to time we used to stand under the school windows to hear and to enjoy the wonderful melodies.
His wife, on the other hand, knew all the shtetl stories. She had many Jewish and Gentile acquaintances. Freedman's wife came to our house often. Blustering into the house like a wind, she told all the stories she knew. Mother would serve her a glass of tea. She would drink the tea and run to spread her gossips in a neighbor's house.
Boys who learned in Heyder and wanted to have a general education too, would take lessons with private teachers. All the teachers who prepared me to the secondary school were strangers in Volozhyn. They were wanderers who were skilled in teaching Arithmetic and Russian language. They arrived in a shtetl, earned some money and moved on to another area. There usually was only a single teacher in town during any given period, because of the small number of children who could afford private lessons.
Apart of Ore Polak's daughters who studied in St Petersburg and who never returned to the shtetl, there were no Jewish University students in Volozhyn. Some of the Graph's Polish functionaries and the Polish pharmacist sent their children to study in Moscow. At the summer vacations they came home. They enacted shows inside a large attic at the Estate. Many Jews frequented those cultural events and enjoyed the playing. They did it in Russian. The last show I saw was Anton Chekhov's "Bear".
There was a Yiddish dramatic circle. One of it's top artists was the blacksmith's son, a beautiful boy with a pleasant voice. His best role was in "Yoseph's Sale". The Yiddish language show was played in the Firemen's barrack beside the Sazhelke.
Important cantors -hazonim and poets have sometimes visited Volozhyn's Beys Medrash. Our town cantor criticized them severely, but we youngsters enjoyed them a lot.
During my long life I had the opportunity to meet several Rabonim but no one could be compared to our Reb Refoel. I can still recall him standing at "Smoyneesrey", the eighteen benedictions prayer. I can still hear his beautiful praying, remember his face, his figure, his whole demeanor.
As all the great Volozhyn Rabonim were, so Reb Refoel was called by his first name only. The second name of our master was not known to most of the community members. Yet it was enough to mention "Reb Refoel" and all of us, young and old, men and women, boys and girls, knew that it referred to "Him", our Row, our Genius, to the first among firsts.
Reb Refoel was a tall, slightly bent man. His virtuous eyes radiated kindness. You could see in them the long day and night hours-spent on reading and studying the holy books.
My father had his place in the same Beys Medrash where Reb Refoel prayed. As a small boy I often used to leave my father, to stay in the rabbi's vicinity to listen and enjoy his devoted prayer. He pronounced each sentence slowly, clearly and with sincere intention.
Volozhyn Jews, who usually thought themselves eminent and very important, referred to him with enormous dignity. When Reb Refoel entered the synagogue, a deep silence prevailed in the Beys Medrash building. You would be able to hear a fly passing. All present looked at him with great respect. It seemed to me that in such a manner was welcomed the Kohen Gadol in the Jerusalem temple.
My father used to go to Reb Refoel Shapira's house at Shavuot, to hear the Rabbi's Droshe - Preaching. Present were those who knew perfectly the Torah, skilled in Talmud and the town more important citizens. I remember my father explaining to mother the topic of Reb Refoel's lecture and it's deep thinking.
When you looked at Reb Refoel it seemed that you are not facing a man from this world, but a man who was truly created in God's Image.
Reb Refoel was the Sandak - Godfather - in my brother Isak's "brit".
Everyone who saw Reb Refoel remained enchanted by his personality for the rest of his life.
* Les parents de Yosef Perelman, pere de Sonia et Monia
The Perelman family belonged to the Intelligentsia circle in Volozhyn. Moyshe Perelman's father was the Vishnievo Rabbi (Vishnievo - a small shtetl near Volozhyn, in which Shimon Peres was born).
Moyshe married Malka Itshakin who drew her Ihuss (pedigree) from Rabbi Hayim der Volozhyner, who established the great Volozhyn Yeshiva and was it's first Yeshiva head. Malka was a beautiful, delicate and civilized woman, a lady.
Moyshe Perelman's father left Vishnievo before the First World War and immigrated to Erets Israel, He changed his name to Margolis (which means Pearl in Hebrew) and became a Rabbi in Rehovot.
All Perelman's were talented, educated people. The two sisters never separated from their Russian books, a rare phenomenon for Shtetl girls in those times. The younger, Fania, later became Professor in the Science Academy of Moscow.
The Volozhyn Jews received in those times the Yiddish journal "der Moment". Few of them read Russian newspapers. Moyshe Perelman was receiving the Russian edited in Moscow, "Russkoye Slovo.
The Perelman's stone house was built in 19th century. Graph Tishkevitch built it and gave it as a present to his friend, Reb Hayim der Volozhyner. Malka Perelman inherited the house. It was built in stone in a style similar to the graph's Estate houses. In the lowest part on the Beys Medrash side were apartments. On the market side was a row of shops. To reach them you had to mount a few steps.
On top of a part of the apartments a second floor was built in which Perelman's family lived. The apartment had departed a large balcony overlooking the market, the only balcony in town.
Steps descended from the left side into half a cellar in which the wine shop was located. On the shelves were arranged many bottles with a variety of colored labels. The sales counter was positioned on the left hand side. Behind it in a chair usually sat the elder Perelman's daughter, Haya Dina. Most of her time she was deeply engrossed in Russian literature. While reading she did not know what happened around her and it was possible to remove all the bottles not interrupting Haya Dina's reading
Steps ran down from the shop to a second and then to a third deep underground cellar. Here the life enjoying liquid was transferred from barrels to bottles.
Moyshe Perelman's additional occupation was his insurance agency. His hands were full with work. The majority of the buildings in Volozhyn and the entire region were wood constructions. Since wood is an excellent burning material, fire destruction was common in the area. The big fires counted as major dates. So you could hear people say that an event occurred "between the second and the third Fire.
Widowed, he lived by himself in his big house on Vilna Street, opposite the sazhelke. The house had many rooms and included a living room with pictures on the walls and soft furniture.
We children were mostly interested in his fly and insects collection. They were pierced and packed in glass boxes .The scientific and common name of each one was marked beside the relevant box.
In his elder years Ore Polak married the shtetl delivery nurse. Her son, my friend, took me often to the living room to show me the wonderful collection.
In Volozhyn one did not have to think of Rotshild when he thought about rich people, he used simply to say "If I were Ore Polak..."
At the end of summer, when the sun was still warm, yet not too hot, it was such a pleasure to wander in the distant fields. We would dig potatoes, bake them on the spot by making bonfires and then we would return exhausted and happy to our homes.
In later years when I would return home to spend my high school summer vacation, I used to walk to Kapustina at midnight, extract Michael Polak's brother from bed, and together steal into the creamery to fry the Holland cheese offal on butter. With paradise taste in mouth, returning home, the first sun rays showed in the east.
We used to walk also to Kaldiki, a village inside the forest on the Bierosa River. We bathed in the deep water flowing between beautiful pine and poplar trees, we walked through the forest to collect black and red wild berries. I loved to spend a good time on the forest river shore with a book intoxicated by Mendele Moher Sforim, Lev Tolstoy or Sholom Aleyhem stories.
We often walked late in the night to the Stolb - the town tower at the and of Vilna street, on the forest way, with our sisters and particularly with their comrades, when in our hearts aroused the first love feelings. It was young boys dreams mixed with joy and happiness.
I remember with longing, regret and mourning my happy boyish years, my birthplace town, my home and the life that was brutally and totally destroyed.
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