International Association of Jewish Genealogical Societies - Cemetery Project

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MOROCCO

An Arab kingdom in Northwest Africa, with coasts on both the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea.
Most of Morocco maintained its independence from European colonial rule until 1912, when the greater part became became a French possession and most of the remainder Spanish. Tangiers became an international city.
Morocco regained its independence in 1956, although the Spanish continue to own two enclaves on the Mediterranean coast


THE JEWISH COMMUNITY

JEWISH COMMUNITY ORGANIZATIONS:
Agadir:
Conseil des Communautes Israelites du Agadir ,
La Paternal Building, Avenue Hassan II.
Casablanca:
Conseil des Communautes Israelites du Marcoc ,
1 rue Abou Abdallah Al Mahassibi, Tel. (02) 22-28-61, 27-06-20, or 27-09-76.
El Jadida:
Conseil des Communautes Israelites du El Jadida ,
32 Boulevard Moulay Abdelhafid (03) 34-27-76.
Essaouira:
Conseil des Communautes Israelites du Essaouira,
29 rue des Syaghines. Tel. (04) 47-22-70.
Fez:
Conseil des Communautes Israelites du Fez ,
24 rue Zerktouni. Tel. (06) 62-05-93.
Marrakech:

Communauté Israёlite de Marrakech,
142 Av. Houmane El Fetouaki Imm.,  Ohayon Arset El Maâch Marrakech Médina
Tel. and Fax: + 212 44 38 98 53
Président: Mr. Jacky Kadoch, 16 Rue Renie Semlalia Marrakech, Tel. +212 61 13 99 35   Fax. +212 44 43 17 93

Meknes:
Conseil des Communautes Israelites du Meknes,
5 rue du Ghana. Tel. (05) 52-19-68 or 52-17-35.
Rabat:
Conseil des Communautes Israelites du Rabat ,
52 Bne-Snassen, Souissi, Rabat, Tel. 212 7 734 747, Fax. 212 7 722 155 or 9 rue Moulay Ismail. Tel. (07) 76-45-04 or 72-45-04.
Tetouan:
Conseil des Communautes Israelites du Tetouan ,
16 rue Moulay Labas. (09) 96-50-03 or 96-57-22.
Tangier:
Conseil des Communautes Israelites du Tangier ,
1 rue de la Liberte. Tel. (09) 93-38-66, 93-60-24, or 93-75-09.

Jewish community information:
http://www.haruth.com/JewsMorocco.html [October 2000]
http://rickgold.home.mindspring.com/index.htm [February 2002] Also has excellent map.
Jewish Morocco [2000, updated 2007]

The Jewish community hired Muslim families to live in the cemeteries as caretakers. At many, there is an organized annual Hilula (a kind of Yahrzeit for a great Rabbi), which among other things promotes upkeep of the sites. The local Jewish community or via the Joint Distribution Committee (which had been very active there) can supplement information. As for specific information, in 1991, I paid my respects at cemeteries in the old city of Casablanca (the "Mellah"), El Jadida, Sefrou, Rabat/Sale. Source: "Baruch"; baruch_bar-alon@email.msn.com visited in 1991.

"The Jews of Morocco represent a remnant of an ancient, thriving community that numbered more than a quarter of a million in 1956. Today [late 1990s] the largest community is in Casablanca, home to 5,000 Jews. There are small Jewish communities in Rabat (400), Marrakesh (250), Meknes (250), Tangier (150), Fez (150), and Tetuan (100). ... In addition to the Jewish communities, the major sites of pilgrimage for the Jewish traveler are the tombs of the holy sages, scattered around the country. The most popular are Rabbi Yehouda Benatar (Fez), Rabbi Chaim Pinto (Mogador), Rabbi Amram Ben Diwane (Ouezzan), and Rabbi Yahia Lakhdar (Beni-Ahmed)." source: http://www.virtualjerusalem.com/ communities/ wjcbook/ morocco/index.htm - link no longer available: [October 2000]

 
THE CEMETERIES

AGADIR:
    Located in Southern Morocco at the desert. "It has a small Jewish community, and a small group of Berber Jews lives in the neighboring town of Inezgane. ... Near-by the city of Agadir is the walled city of Taroudant, with its mellah and Jewish cemetery. The most important Taroudant saint is David Ben Baruk Cohen Azog. South of Agadir is Ifrane Anti-Atlas, where the tombs of the 50 Nesrafimes or Jewish martyrs are located. In 1790 during the tyrannical reign of Moulay Yazid, these Jews chose to jump into a fire rather than convert to Islam. Ifrane is also believed to contain Jewish tombs over 2,000 years old. Further east is the desert port of Akka, one of the major transit points for the caravan trade, where the Jewish cemetery contains tombs marked only by piles of large stones."
Source: http://rickgold.home.mindspring.com/page25.html [February 2002]
    UPDATE: The 1 March 1960 Agadir earthquake killed 12,000, of whom ten percent were Jews. In Agadir cemetery, two-thirds of the tombs are those of the people who died on that day. Muslim, Jewish, and Christian cemeteries lie side by side in an area that was never rebuilt, since it lies on the fault. Common graves exist. A genizah (burial site for torahs and other religious texts and articles) also exists. Source: Rick Gold rickgold@mindspring.com [February 2002]

AKKA: See ZAWIYA
    In this town, caravans to Tindouf and Timbuktu were organized. Jews were responsible for much of the trade, including black slavery. The Jewish village of Tagadirt is on the left just before entrance to Akka. Follow along a rough path for 1-kilometer. Just before it starts to climb, there is a rock field. The Jewish cemetery consists of rocks arranged in piles the length and width of a tomb. This can be seen well from on top of the hill. The tombs date at least from early in this century. Source: Rick Gold rickgold@mindspring.com [February 2002]
    "Akka is an oasis, a palmary, close to the Algerian border. It is an ancient caravan route and an ancient area of Jewish settlement. Akka is composed of the city Akka and small douar or villages (about 7 in total). Village of Tagadirt may have Jewish cemetery also. Source: Jewish Morocco http://jewishmorocco.blogspot.com/2008/11/akka-oct-27.html [November 2008]

AZJEN: see Ouezzane

CASABLANCA:
    Beth El, the Main Synagogue of Casablance, Rue Verlet Hanus, Tradition: Moroccan Orthodox Sephardi population: 5998. Jewish population: 6000 According to Yitzchak Schier, the Casablanca community has school(s), Jewish bookstore(s), Jewish cemetery, Jewish community center(s), Jewish day school(s), kosher market(s), kosher products in other markets, kosher restaurant(s), mikvah, and mohel(im). Additional information provided by Alain Amar.
Source: http://bnaisepharad.8m.com/morocco.html [May 2001]
    "The Jewish cemetery in the mellah is open and quiet, with well-kept white stone markers in French, Hebrew and Spanish. Once a year, Casablancans celebrate a hiloula, or prayer festival, at the tomb of the Jewish saint, Eliahou." Source: http://rickgold.home.mindspring.com/page16.html [February 2002]
    UPDATE: Mellah Cemetery maintained by three Muslim families. The 50 year-old site has broken stones and barely legible inscriptions. Source: Rick Gold rickgold@mindspring.com [February 2002]

CUETA:
see Spanish North Africa and Tetouan

DEBDOU:
    "Southwest of Oujda is Debdou, a town which had a significant Jewish population, as shown by its large mellah and two Jewish cemeteries. Debdou saints include Youssef Bensimon, Jacob Cohen, Ishak Ben Moche Cohen, Mardochee Ben Moche Cohen, and Moche Ben Sultan."
Source: http://rickgold.home.mindspring.com/page25.html [February 2002]
    UPDATE: There are two Jewish cemeteries up the hill.

EL JADIDA:
    Alternate name: Mazagan. "In El Jadida, south of Casablanca, the 18th century Portuguese citadel later served as the Jewish quarter. It is possible to climb the bastions, where a [S]tar of David can be seen on an abandoned synagogue, which was converted from a Portuguese court house. Next to the Portuguese city is a large Jewish cemetery. The tombstones of Jewish translators and employees of foreign consuls demonstrates [sic] the Jewish role in 19th century trade with Europe. The saint Yahia Assouline is buried in this cemetery." Source: http://rickgold.home.mindspring.com/page21.html [February 2002]

ESSAOUIRA:
Photos of town: http://www.morocco-holidays.com/essaouira/medina/medina.htm [November 2002]
Town map: http://www.daralbahar.com/plan_essaouira_uk.htm [November 2002]
       Alternate names: MOGADOR. (Arabic: 'as-sawîra) at 31.5° N 9.8° W. This little town facing the Atlantic is located on the west coast of Morocco. Essaouira was founded in 1765. The oldest tombs date from 1776. These tombs are interesting. Contrary to Jewish tradition and Mosaic Law, they are sculptured with very marked human forms. These anthropomorphic tombstones sometimes bear epigraphic inscriptions and sometimes none. These monolithic tombstones are carved out of marine sandstone. Their size in length varies between a width of 1.50 meter and 2.00 m, 0.50 m and a height of 0.30 m. This kind of tombstone can be found in other Moroccan towns located mainly on the Atlantic and Mediterranean coasts. In some towns such as Xauen (Tetouan) certain tombs have been dated to the 16th century. In Spain, this kind of tombstones has been found in Murcia and also in the Barcelona Montjuif Cemetery. One of the tombs dated from the 12th century. Source: Liliane Benisty [no functioning email address-January 2002]
    "Essaouira's mellah covers over 10 percent of the town, but Jews constituted almost 40 percent of the population in the late 1880's. Jewish stars on the doors to the mellah show the degree to which Jews were accepted in Essaouira, to the point that some of the richer Jews did not even live in the mellah. Commemorative plaques indicate the buildings in which synagogues were located. Former inhabitants of Essaouira, most of them Jewish, formed a committee to rehabilitate the town. An important member of the committee is King Hassan II's Economic Advisor, Andre Azoulay. The Jewish cemetery, just outside the city gates, is extremely well kept. The hiloula of Chaim Pinto is held in September." Source: http://rickgold.home.mindspring.com/page21.html [February 2002]
"an eighteenth-century town characterized by white and blue houses and an easy style. It is the ideal place to relax and to stroll among its wood workshops and art galleries, boat builders and sardine fishermen, ... Among the souks worth visiting are the Marche d'Epices (spice market) and Souk des Bijoutiers (jeweler's market), which was once dominated by Essaouira's Jewish community. Source: travel-to-morocco.com [November 2002]
       " My first book was concerned with urban society in Essaouira, Morocco's principal seaport in the 19th century, and I continue to work on the history of the Jewish community of Essaouira in an effort to study the transformation of Moroccan Jewry in the 19th and 20th centuries." Source: http://www.humanities.uci.edu/history/faculty/schroeter/ DANIEL J. SCHROETER, Teller Family Chair in Jewish History, U of Ca-Irvine: djschroe@uci.edu

UPDATE: (survey October 2002):
     Current town population is 70,000 with fewer than 25 Jews. The Jewish community dates from around 1700. The unlandmarked cemetery was established around 1700, maybe before. The Jewish community of 17,000 people and 10,000 muslims in 1850, had the special status of "négociants du roi". For more information please contact Alexandre Lévy at alex@alexandre.com. Caretaker is a 20 year-old Muslim, just present to open and close the doors. He has the key. Rabbi Haim Pinto is buried there. The last burial in the inactive Sephardic cemetery was 1989.
     The suburban, land, surrounded by water, is separate but near other cemeteries. The cemetery is reached by turning directly off a public road. Access to the cemetery is open to all via a continuous masonry wall and a locking gate. Current size of cemetery (specify measurement unit): New cemetery is about 156 meters by 101 meters; and Old cemetery is about 177 meters by 83 meters. No special sections. The oldest known gravestone dates from 1776. A burial database is under construction.About 4,000 to 5,0000 gravestones are in cemetery, about 500 in the old cemetery and about 3,500 for the new cemetery.
     The marble, granite, and sandstone memorial markers are rough stones or boulders, flat, shaped stones, finely smoothed and inscribed stones, and mausoleums. Some have traces of painting on their surfaces. Inscriptions are in Hebrew and French. The local Jewish community owns the site. The sea is adjacent to the cemetery. Private Jewish visitors and families visit occasionally. The never vandalized cemetery has no maintenance but has occasional clearing or cleaning by individuals. The "caretaker" is paid by the government.
     Structures within the limits of the cemetery, include a cemetery office and a caretaker's residence. The vegetation overgrowth in the cemetery is not a problem because vegetation protects stones from erosion. Water drainage at the cemetery is good all year. Full survey effected in 2002, including 4'000 pictures, each stone has been labeled and information is currently updated in a database. More information will be available at Alexandre Lévy's upcoming website - www.mygenealogy.ch - by the end of the year November [2003].
     Alexandre Lévy, Geneva, Switzerland, alex@alexandre.com completed this survey in October 2002. [November 2002]

FEZ:
      http://www.bh.org.il/Communities/Archive/Fez.asp Jewish community history [October 2000]
      http://www.danheller.com/images/Africa/Morocco/Scene/img16.html   Photo
     "The great Rue des Merinides and the Place des Alaouites make up the nerve center of this district. Dar el-Makhzen, the royal palace with the golden doors, opens onto the esplanade where begins the Rue Bou Khessissat with its houses of wood and wrought iron. A few hundred meters away, the Jewish cemetery with its immaculate tombs stands as a haven of silence in the midst of the Mellah, the Jewish quarter." Source: http://www.dalilusa.com/Almusaafer/MOROCCO/Places/fezplace.html [May 2002]
    The mellah is 650 years old. "This picturesque neighborhood adjoins the royal palace, noted for its recently constructed bright brass doors. Jews took shelter in this palace during the 1912 pogrom. The nearby cemetery contains the tombs of more Jewish saints than any other cemetery in Morocco. One of the more important saints is Lalla Solica, who was killed for refusing to convert to Islam." Source: http://rickgold.home.mindspring.com/page17.html [February 2002]

IFRANE: see AGADIR

IGHIL NORO:
    
"The cemetery was very large. Many tombs maintained their shape. Many were also completely desecrated. There was underwear everywhere. All sorts of outer and underwear in fact. There is apparently a local belief that washing at the tomb of a Jew has certain healing powers and thus women will come to the cemetery wash at a tomb (after trying to open the tomb) and rid themselves of their clothes there. There was also a structure partially intact which could have been the Hevra Kadish building. There were three graves that still had Hebrew inscriptions. One wasn’t destroyed and the other two were partially destroyed although you could still make out partial Hebrew words and letters. One of these was in very bad condition. It had been tampered with in such a way that was particularly emotional. Shards of Hebrew lay around the rubble." Source: Jewish Morocco http://jewishmorocco.blogspot.com/2008/11/ighil-noro-oct-30.html: [November 2008]

ILIGH:
    The Iligh family attracted a colony of Jews from OUFRANE to carry out commercial activities. Iligh was the financial center and became the principal place of trade for products from the Sahara and Europe.
    Jews initially were prohibited from establishing a cemetery. Sidi Ali ou Moussa, founder of the Muslim House of Iligh in about 1612, encouraged them to stay by allowing them to build a synagogue, despite restrictions normally imposed on Jews under Islam. After he took Agadir, Jews became intermediaries with Europeans for caravan trade and importation of European arms. Jews could only live in Muslim lands if they were under the protection of Muslim lords. Thus, when Moulay Rachid destroyed Iligh in 1670, the Jews could not stay. They returned after the town was reestablished in 1730, probably about 1750. The Jewish population in 1869 was 500 Jews in 1869, 300 in 1883, 220 in 1936, and 240 in 1951.
    From Iligh, take the road going toward the airstrip, Go 1.3 km south, then head toward TALUST , 1.2 km to the west. 130 meters to the right is the cemetery of about ¾ hectare. Tombs with Hebrew inscriptions face west to east. Borrowing from Muslim practice, Jewish children less than seven years of age were buried anonymously. The oldest tombstone dates from 1751. (Epidemics occurred in 1800, 1869 and 1945.) Few Jews were buried during 1770's and 1780's. Burials increase in 1790s perhaps due to expulsion from OUFRANE, when the martyrs were burned. Tombstone inscriptions give family name, sex, and date of death. Biblical Hebrew names are prevalent with some Arab names. Few family names are from southern Morocco. Some were from Spain, speaking Arab and no Berber. They may provide information on epidemics, population fluctuations, and family migration. Source: "Le Cimitiere juif d'Iligh 1751-1955: Etude des Epitaphes comme documents d'histoire demographique." Paul Pascon, Daniel Shroeter. 1981, in Paul Pascon, La Maison d'Iligh et l'histoire sociale du Tazerwalt , Societe Marocaine des Editeurs Reunis. Rabat. 1984.

INEZGANE: see AGADIR

MAZAGAN: see EL JADIDA

MARRAKECH:
    This, the largest Jewish cemetery in Morocco, is located adjacent to the mellah (Jewish quarter), within the medina (old city) of Marrakech and simply is called the Jewish Cemetery. Present Marrakech population is over 700,000 with a current Jewish population of about 220-250 adults and older children, plus some young children.
     A local Arab family lives in a small house within the cemetery and provides ongoing maintenance of the grounds and graves--including clearing brush, whitewashing the tombstones, restoring damaged stones, and guarding the entryway. Two brothers, aged about 30 or 35, who belong to this Arab family, provided all the data for this survey, primarily in French. Their father maintained the cemetery before them. The length of time this family has cared for the site is unknown. The family is paid by the local Jewish community, at a rate of 200 dirhams per month (about $20 U.S.) for all services. The two brothers were friendly, open, and pleased to provide information. They seemed to care about the cemetery and its preservation. There were some language difficulties during the two-hour cemetery tour and interview because the brothers speak very little English, and the interviewer speaks limited French. Only information that was clearly understood is included in this write-up. The Jewish community in Marrakech was originally known as Hevra Kadisha. Individual Jews have lived in what is now Marrakech since the time of the Phoenicians, and a Jewish community has existed since at least the time of the Spanish Inquisition. The Jewish population before WWII was more than 40,000, but the vast majority has moved to Israel. The original cemetery on this site, several centuries old, is now below ground-level, completely covered, and hidden by a second "generation" (level) of graves. The current cemetery, at ground level, dates back about 200 to 300 years. Though the cemetery is still in use, it is extremely full and has only one small area remaining for future burials. There are no divisions for Orthodox or other branches Judaism, but only for Jewish burials. The cemetery is geographically near the former and current synagogues within the mellah. (Another synagogue exists in the new part of Marrakech.) Although not considered a public landmark, the cemetery is a destination for some tourists.
     The cemetery location is urban, on flat land, adjacent to an Islamic cemetery, but separated from it by part of the ancient city wall. Over the cemetery doorway (a large gate in the surrounding wall) is a tiled marker sign, containing a Hebrew phrase and the date 5297 / 1537. The cemetery is reached via public streets within the mellah. However, the cemetery is accessible only to Jews and tourists (including Christians seeking Jewish ancestors). The doorway, which closes securely, is guarded by a member of the caretaker family, who asks visitors who they are and why they are there. Genealogy is an acceptable reason. Photos are allowed without restriction.
     This extensive cemetery is fully surrounded by walls. The brothers claimed the walls are about 700 meters per side or 2800 meters all around; this seems unlikely and may reflect a language misunderstanding. Part of the wall is the original city rampart, built in the 12th century. The walls are about 12-15 feet tall and built of perhaps stone or brick, covered with an adobe-like, white coating. The site previously had two doors--one for Cohanim and one for everyone else. The Cohanim door has been closed for some time. The single remaining door is diligently guarded. The exact size is unknown. On the original, hidden level, the number of graves is impossible to know. On the current ground level, the brothers say about 10,000. The graves are assumedly in their original locations; the brothers did not imply otherwise. The stones are packed so tightly that no room remains for moving anything.
     Few of the tombstones are toppled, because they are predominantly horizontal in style and position (see description of shapes and time periods, below). Most of the oldest markers are in good condition, because they are small and compact and get whitewashed 1 or 2 times per year. Perhaps 10% of these need major restoration due to crumbling, which reveals their brick interiors. Of the middle-aged markers, perhaps half are intact and half in need of minor or major restoration. The newer (20th-century) markers are OK.
     The spaces between graves include some concrete paths, some dirt paths, some areas of low brambles. Most of the markers are extremely close together. There are few trees and no real grass. Overgrowth probably exists year-round, but probably doesn't prevent access to graves if visitors are willing to tramp through some weeds. The weeds do not seem tall or dense enough to damage the gravestones.
     The climate is warm-to-hot and dry. The annual rainy season (winter) is not normally severe enough to cause problems. Previously three wells existed on the site, but all were filled-in sometime in the past when the municipality of Marrakech wanted the water supply for residential use. The dirt and cement pathways are routinely maintained and appeared fairly flat and smooth. The cemetery has three sections: for men, women, and young children. There are no divisions for Cohanim, or for married versus unmarried people. Older children apparently are buried in the men's and women's sections. The brothers said many children in the cemetery had died of cholera, or more recently of general lack of medical care. The tombstones can be differentiated by their ages, their shapes and sizes, the construction materials used, the presence and language of any inscriptions, and the presence of embedded plaques (see below).
     The tombstones belong to three general time periods. Differing styles and materials were used during each period: A. The oldest stones are 200-300 years old. They are low, compact, and plain: about 4 feet long, 1 or 2 feet wide, one or two feet tall, many with lengthwise peaked tops, and without decorations or inscriptions. They're built of reddish-brown, flat bricks, covered with a thick, stucco-like coating of a limestone-sand-water mixture, and whitewashed. B. The middle-aged stones are 150-200 years old. They are coffin-shaped, about 6 feet long, 2 feet wide, two or three feet tall, with flat tops. Some are made of stone, either coated with limestone or uncoated. Others are made of "mosaic" (the Arab brothers' term), meaning white cement mixed with tiny shards of multi-hued graphite, with a smooth, uncoated surface. Many middle-aged tombs have relief inscriptions; some have embedded plaques instead (see definition below). C. The newest stones are less than 150 years old. They are coffin-shaped like the middle-aged tombstones, but are slightly larger, and constructed mostly of marble, with carved inscriptions. The stones in categories A, B, and C are all essentially horizontal. The only vertical gravestones in this cemetery are several room-sized monuments belonging to rich families or rabbis. Inscriptions and plaques: The brothers have no paper listing of people buried in Marrakech's Jewish cemetery. Identifying the people buried under the oldest, plain horizontal markers is impossible. Among the 150-200-year-old markers, many bear relief inscriptions in their rock or limestone top surfaces. Other middle-aged graves, owned by poor families who couldn't afford inscriptions, have a flat, irregularly-shaped piece of glazed pottery or stone or other hard material embedded into the top or side surface. An embedded object may be plain, decorated (e.g., with a floral design), inscribed with words, or have any other color or structure. The purpose: so survivors could identify the otherwise-generic grave of their loved one by finding the tomb carrying the correct plaque. There are many such plaques in this cemetery. The newer graves contain standard inscriptions carved into marble tops.
     Most inscriptions are in Hebrew. French appears on the newer stones. The oldest graves (200-300 years-in some cases maybe even older) have no inscriptions. The graves with embedded objects are about 200 years old. The graves with Hebrew relief inscriptions are less than 200 years old.
     The graves with Hebrew or French carved inscriptions are mostly from the 20th century. The method of inscribing the date also reveals a grave's age: older stones use Hebrew letters to represent the date; later stones state the Jewish year (5706, etc.); modern stones state the secular year (1960, etc.). There is considerable overlap in the use of these methods. But overall, except for 20th-century graves, the vast majority of stones do not identify the deceased.
     The two brothers who care for the cemetery read Hebrew and can translate into French the details of tomb inscriptions. They also understand Jewish customs regarding names and dates on tombstones, and know general information about Judaism, although they and their family are Muslim.
     There are no special memorial monuments to Holocaust victims or other groups. The only unusual graves are family monuments for half a dozen wealthy families or rabbis, including one for the recently deceased president of the Jewish community.
     The local Jewish community supports the cemetery. Actual ownership of the land was not stated. The site is still reserved exclusively for Jewish burials. No other burials or uses are allowed. Adjacent properties include a large Islamic cemetery on the other side of the oldest wall, the mellah beyond the opposite wall, and medina streets and shops beyond the other walls. The size of the cemetery is probably not significantly different now than in1939, though no actual comparison was made. Tourists (Jewish and Christian) from around the world (especially North America and Europe), who have ancestors buried there, visit frequently. In particular, groups of Moroccan Jews, who emigrated to Israel, used to come at the rate of two or three groups each day. However, during political crises, the number of visitors drops drastically--including during Israeli/Palestinian crises and the current war in Afghanistan; the number of visitors is very low now. Local Jews visit frequently, especially during holidays, including Rosh Khodesh.
     People visiting loved ones' graves show remembrance and respect for the deceased according to their Ashkenazic or Sephardic customs. Ashkenazim place pebbles or small stones on top of the grave. Sephardim light candles, often placing a candle in a recessed portion of the grave or in a small adobe tunnel adjacent to the grave. Whether vandalism was a problem in the past is uncertain. Vandalism is not a problem now, because the caretaker family guards the cemetery at all times, questions people who want to enter, and allows in only Jews and tourists. The brothers and their family tend the grounds, whitewash the older stones one or two times per year, guard the cemetery entrance, talk with visitors, and perform restoration work themselves. Since not much money is available for marker restoration, the brothers often restore at the specific request of descendants of a deceased person buried in the cemetery; the descendants provide money for the repairs. The brothers receive some labor assistance from persons outside the caretaker family--necessary since the cemetery is so large. They seem interested in caring for and protecting the cemetery, despite financial limitations. Overall, the cemetery appears unpolished and worn, but stable and respectful. The Arab brothers do restoration work locally. Whether any support money is received from overseas is unknown. The work is done as needed and as money becomes available. Many graves still need restoration work.
     The local Jewish community pays the caretaker family at the rate of 200 dirhams ($20 U.S.) per month. The brothers say this is insufficient to support their family and pay for the needed restorations; this is probably true. No admission fee is required to enter the cemetery, though a Jewish man at the door requests donations from exiting visitors. The brothers will accept donations for their support or for restoration costs. Structures within the cemetery include the caretaker family's small house, plus several room-sized monuments. The only moderate threat is lack of sufficient funds for ongoing restoration needs. The Marrakech Jewish Cemetery is not notably endangered by weather or vandals, but rather by a lack of money to keep up with the restoration of tombstones. The Jewish community in Marrakech is tiny, and the mellah area is far from wealthy. People from overseas may or may not be supporting the synagogue, but apparently not much money comes to the cemetery. The biggest enemy is time, which is eroding the graves quicker than funds are arriving to fix them."
     Suzanne Werkema, e-mail: werkema@chesco.com completed this survey and visited site on 2 November 2001. All information given in this survey was received verbally from the two brothers belonging to the caretaker family. Other documentation: unknown. She interviewed the caretaker brothers say no list exists of people buried in the cemetery. The Jewish community in Marrakech possibly has a list of 20th-century burials. She spent about two hours walking in the cemetery, photographing graves, and talking with the caretaker brothers. In addition, several days later she toured the mellah with a local man, and saw the markets and lanes, the old synagogue doorway, the place where food is made kosher, the walled entryway to the current mellah synagogue, and the inside of the synagogue itself. [December 2001]
    "The Marrakesh mellah dates from the 1550's, as noted on the door to the Jewish cemetery. ... The Marrakesh cemetery is the site of the Jewish saint Hanania Cohen. ...The rural areas surrounding Marrakesh have the heaviest concentration of Jewish saints of anywhere in Morocco. Demnate, northeast of Marrakesh, is one of the few rural towns with a well-developed mellah, as well as a cemetery with the saint David Draa Halevy. Near-by Sidi Rahal has the mausoleum of Jacob Ashkenazi, called Moul Lma (Lord of the Water), since it is built over a stream. South of Marrakesh, in the ancient town of Aghbalou in the Ourika Valley, the tomb of Saloman ben Elhans is cared for by one of the few remaining Berber Jews in Morocco. At the highest point on the road to Ouarzazate, a Jewish saint, David Lachkar (or Moulay Ighi), is buried in the stronghold of the most powerful Berber family of the twentieth century, the Glaoui." Source: http://rickgold.home.mindspring.com/page18.html [February 2002]

MEKNES:

MELILLA: see Spanish North Africa.

MOGADOR: see Essaouira

NADOR:
    "Oujda's Jews make hiloula to the saint Saadiah Haddati in nearby Nador. Nador is on the frontier with Melilla, a Spanish enclave. " Source: http://rickgold.home.mindspring.com/page25.html [February 2002]

OUFRANE (IFRANE ANTI-ATLAS):
    Story of Oufrane: 60 Jews from Oufrane were at a souk. A sorcerer, inspired by Moulay Yazid, arrived along with many armed bandits. The sorcerer wanted to prove his power, to be considered a king. The sorcerer, Bouhalassa, chained up the Jews and tortured them. The local population, who had treated the Jews of the area very well, freed ten of the sixty. Bouhalassa gave the fifty Jews the choice of conversion to Islam or death. He built a great fire. The Jews decided to go as a group into the fire, rather than have even one of them convert. All of them jumped into the fire, one by one. Legend is that a column of fire rose up to the sky. At night, candelabra of fire came down from the sky. Persecutions of Jews stopped. The ten Jews and thirty Muslims gathered up the ashes and brought them to the cemetery in Oufrane. The cemetery contains an area forbidden to all human beings, where only the tzadeks rest. The ashes of the fifty martyrs are outside this area. There are tombs almost 2,000 years old, others more recent. Source: Pierre Flamand, Diaspora en Terre d'Islam, Les Communautes Israelites du Sud Marocain , Casablanca, 1957

OUJDA: see NADOR

OUEZZANE:
    "This Moslem holy village (167 miles from Casablanca) is also holy to Jews for the tomb of the miracle-working Rabbi Amram, who came to Morocco from Hebron to collect money for Israel and died in this mountain village in 1782." Source: Freedman, Warren. World Guide for the Jewish Traveler . NY: E.P. Dutton Inc, 1984. Submitted by Bernard Kouchel: koosh@worldnet.att.net
    "Further North is Ouezzane, a town controlled by an important Muslim fraternity who encouraged Jewish traders and agriculturists to live near-by. East of Ouezzane is the village of Azjen, where the tomb of the most important Jewish saint, Amram Ben Diwane, is found. The Lag B'Omer pilgrimages to his grave attract hundreds of Jews from both inside and beyond Morocco." Source: http://rickgold.home.mindspring.com/page19.html [February 2002]

RABAT:
    Rabat's Jewish cemetery has tombstones with inscriptions in Hebrew, French and Spanish. Important saints include Eliezer de Avila and Chalom Zaoui. A few kilometers north of Rabat, a new Jewish museum has opened, near the Plage des Nations. Source: http://rickgold.home.mindspring.com/page20.html [February 2002]

SALE:
    Sister city of Rabat. "Sale's most famous rabbi, Raphael Encaoua, is buried in the Sale cemetery. His tomb is the focus of a major hiloula." Source: http://rickgold.home.mindspring.com/page21.html [February 2002]

SEFROU:
Supposedly, there are three Jewish cemeteries in Sefrou. One cemetery is one kilometer before the town on the way from Fez. A big gate with the words "Cimitiere de Sefrou" written on it and Hebrew lettering can be seen. Inside are several tzadeks. The oldest part, being restored with funds from families from Sefrou, has headstones that have had inserted into cement monuments. The latest tombs date from the 1970s. Most inscriptions are totally in Hebrew. Several tombs are those of merchants, who died in a truck accident on the road to Tafilalelt. Tzadeks Elbaz.The hiloula occurs on Lag B'Omer. Source: Rick Gold rickgold@mindspring.com [February 2002]

SIDI RAHAL:
    The Legend of Moul Almay of Sidi Rahal: Sidi Rahal in the Arab neighborhood had a son who fell in love with a young Jewish woman and tried to kidnap her. Rabbi Jacob from Palestine looked him in the eyes, and he fell down dead. Sidi Rahal wanted to exterminate the Jews because of this. Rabbi Jacob told him he could bring his son back to life so that the son could name his real killer. The rabbi tapped the cadaver with his stick. The son got up. He said that it was not the Jews who killed him but God. Then, he died. Rabbi Jacob died the next day. Sidi Rahal protected the Jews from then on. Rabbi Jacob was buried in a gorge called Almay and was named Moul Almay.
    In 1946, Madame Elkaim, wife of a Marrakech itinerant trader, worried about her husband, who was away on business in Casablanca. An old man came to the door to tell her not to worry, that her husband would return soon. He returned the next day. The next night, according to the Elkaims, Moul Almay visited them and told them where to find his body. He asked them to build a mausoleum. They did as they were told and built a mausoleum for ten people. The Hilloula takes place the 18 th day of the month of Iyar. Inscribed on the tomb is "Here is the tomb of the rabbi whose name is known in all the cities and towns. The desires of all who come to his tomb will be fulfilled. His name is the Chief Rabbi Jacob Askenazi, known as Moul Almay." Source: Pierre Flamand, Diaspora en Terre d'Islam, Les Communautes Israelites du Sud Marocain , Casablanca, 1957

 

TAGADIRT:

    Located in the province of Tata, Tagadirt has no Jewish population. The 2 cemeteries, 2 tombs and melah section of town are very old, but since the Jews left for Israel no one cares for them. In the last seven years, they have come under great disrepair. One of the tombs had inch thick marble, now smashed and scraped bare. The bodies, however, remain. [Source: Joshua Slepin, BP 5, Akka Centre, Province de TATA, Morocco, kmatchstick20007@yahoo.com visited the site. His email time is VERY limited as he lives in a small town without it. As a Peace Corps volunteer nearby, he works with an association that would like to help in the repair and upkeep of these sites, but are searching for organizations to help.  He would be happy to act as a point of contact. 2005]

TANGIER:

    Alternate name: Tanger. Current town population: 550,000 with less than 25 Jews.  Situated at the extreme northern-western corner of the African continent and is only 17 kilometres  from Spain/European continent.

    Postal address:  La Cimetière des Juifs, Rue Du Portugal, Tangier, Morocco. On some local maps the cemetery is called La Cimetière des Juifs: Israelites.

    Two female and one male Muslim caretakers work there by day and are not resident caretakers of the overgrown site with many chickens running around. They have the key. Graves in the inactive urban cemetery on a hillside seem to date up to 1950.  The gate is unmarked but by climbing Les Escaliers Americains on Rue du Portugal at entrance to Medina, you can just about see Hebrew on the graves over the cemetery wall. Otherwise the cemetery is not marked except on all city maps. All locals seem to know it. The gate was ajar. Upon knocking, a gatekeeper did come and answer.  The cemetery is surrounded by a continuous masonry wall and a locking gate. The large cemetery probably contains at least 1,000 graves. Tombstones, probably dating from the 16th century, are flat, shaped stones and double tombstones with Sephardic inscriptions. Some have metal fences around graves with inscriptions in English and Hebrew. The present owner of the cemetery property is the municipality. Properties adjacent to the cemetery are mostly shops. Apparently, formally no access is allowed, but after asking if we were Jewish, the gatekeeper allowed brief access. The condition is very poor with grass overgrown and many older graves cracked or toppled. The caretaker is paid by the government. A caretaker’s house exists but is not used by the caretaker.   Weather erosion is a very serious threat. The vegetation overgrowth in the cemetery is a constant problem, disturbing stones. Water drainage at the cemetery is a constant problem, disturbing tombstones or graves.

    Nick Johnston, Flat Fourteen, 10 Westbourne Crescent, London, UK, W2 3DB. Telephone: UK 0207 723 7689. Email: nrjohnstone@gmail.com visited the site on 19 April 2007 and completed the survey. He and his wife spoke with the staff at the American Legation Museum, which is near the cemetery. They were unaware if the cemetery is formally closed to the public or not. Most locals seemed unsure. However, the gatekeepers allowed brief access so public access must be possible if those wanting to visit explain their reason for wanting access. [April 2007]

TAROUDANT:
   
Taroudant sits at the foot of the High Atlas mountains. As usual it once had a significant Jewish community of some 1,000 years but not much remains. I found my way to the cemetery by following the inside of the surround mud brick walls. The cemetery was very large and obviously once boasted many more graves than I could at the time see. There was a full time caretaker who showed me around including to the tombs of the tzaddikim. Very few graves had Hebrew inscriptions on them despite the good condition of most of the visible graves. The Taroudant Jewish cemetery has a very interesting history that I am just beginning to discover." Source: Jewish Morocco http://jewishmorocco.blogspot.com/2008/11/taroudant-oct-28.html [November 2008] 

TETOUAN:
    "The pre-burial house (where cleansing of the dead was carried out prior to burial) in the Jewish cemetery of Cetua was set afire by unknown individuals. Ceuta is a Spanish territorial enclave located next to the city of Tetuan in Morocco." Source: Dateline: World Jewry , WJC, 501 Madison Ave., NY, NY 10022.
See: Freedman, Warren. World Guide for the Jewish Traveler . NY: E.P. Dutton Inc, 1984. Submitted by Bernard Kouchel: koosh@worldnet.att.net and tomb descriptions for Essaouira.

TIOUTE:
    
"At the top of one of the mountains sits a beautiful kasbah (castle). At the foot of the mountain that leads up to the Kasbah is the tomb of the Hacham of Tioute.... One the side of the mountain is a painted staircase that leads up to the Kasbah. Half way up there is a short turn off and there lies the Hacham of Tioute. Although close to Taroudant you are removed from any sort of hustle and bustle." Source: Jewish Morocco http://jewishmorocco.blogspot.com/2008/11/hacham-tioute-oct-31.html:  [November 2008]

VOLUBILIS:
     "Hebrew grave markers and the ruins of a synagogue were found at the Roman colony of Volubilis." Source: The Jewish Travel Guide . London: Jewish Chronicle, 1992. Submitted by Bernard Kouchel: koosh@worldnet.att.net
     The Jewish community hired Muslim families to live in the cemeteries and care for them. At many, an organized Hilula (kind of like a Yahrzeit for a great Rabbi) once a year, among other things, promotes upkeep of the sites. The local Jewish community or the Joint Distribution Committee (which had been very active) can supplement information. As for specific information, in 1991, I paid my respects at cemeteries in the old city of Casablanca (the "Mellah"), El Jadida, Sefrou, Rabat/Sale. Guided by local Jews, I also visited many other cemetery sites. Source: "Baruch"; e-mail: baruch_bar-lon@email.msn.com
    "North of Meknes ... a well-preserved Roman city, where archaeologists found the first traces of Jewish settlement in Morocco. Source: http://rickgold.home.mindspring.com/page19.html [February 2002]

XAUEN: see Tetouan

ZAWIYA:
   
Zawiya is the northern most village about eight kilometers "by foot through dry riverbeds and through mud brick villages ... and at the edge of an oasis by a mountain.... an infidel's cemetery. ... none of the graves were in a good condition. They had all been destroyed and theoretically for reasons associated with superstition. Surround[ing] the graves were broken tagines, clothes, and hairbrushes (... When I passed by a Muslim cemetery earlier in the morning I noticed a broken tagines everywhere. ...I noticed a couple of structures in the near distance. I walked down towards them pretty sure I was at any moment going to be stung by scorpion and found that they were mausoleums for tzaddikim. The graves still maintained their shape and I made out three distinct graves in two separate buildings. Unfortunately I could not find any Hebrew inscription anywhere but it looked to me like tzaddikim that were once visited but no longer. They were Berber independence symbols on the wall and I even found a Star of David crossed out." Source: Jewish Morocco http://jewishmorocco.blogspot.com/2008/11/akka-oct-27.html [November 2008]


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