ONLINE NEWSLETTER
(No. 3/2006 - March 2006)
Editor: Fran Bock

We are pleased to present excerpts from the journal kept by Judd Rothstein during his September 2005  journey to ancestral shtetls in Belarus. It is unusual for one so young to embark on this sort of search, and we salute him. Many of Judd’s comments on his preparation for the trip will be of interest to anyone contemplating a similar journey.

 

Here, in his own words, is his introduction,:

 

“My name is Judd ‘YehudaRothstein, I am twenty-two years old and a recent graduate of the University of Michigan, Ann Arbor. I am currently taking time off studying in Israel. I will return to the United States in September and am looking for some work experience before attending law school in the fall of 2007. I can be contacted at jr483@msn.com

 

“This is a journal entry. Large portions of this journal are notes from conversations I had with various people in Belarus. I try to stick to the original wording and format of the information presented to me. Sometimes I may appear a bit repetitive but that is because the interviewee repeated their idea. There is not always a logical flow of ideas or events. Please see the addendum at the end for additional information not included in the bulk journal entry.”

 

© This article is copyrighted by Judd Rothstein.

Reprinting or copying of this article is not allowed
without prior permission from the copyrightholders
.

 

A Journey to Belarus

by Judd Rothstein

 

Judd Rothstein and Zijana at JDC Center for Children at Risk, Kharkov, Ukraine (August 2005)

 

Why go to Belarus?

 

            I feel that in many ways my journey to Belarus, to the land of White Russia, was a century in the making. It seems natural to me that a land that nourished our ancestors for hundreds of years would some how call out to at least one of its descendents. This calling found me and it created a sense of curiosity and desire to re-explore a world that has almost vanished. Tolochin and Orsha were worlds that until very recently I could not adequately imagine nor could I possibly comprehend. Until I began to explore my lineage, the story of my family, I knew scattered and incomplete details about that world from which my great-grandparents came and what their motivations were for leaving 

 

I knew only the following: My great-grandfather, Yaakov “Jacob” Rutstein was born in the small village of Tolochin, on April 15th, 1878. From looking at maps I could tell that Tolochin straddles the main road from Minsk leading to one of Belarus largest towns, Orsha.  I knew that he was one of nearly a half dozen children born to Dov Ber and Riva Rutstein.  As a child I often heard stories about “Grandpa Jacob” and how he came to the United States in nineteen-hundred and six and within a decade made millions of dollars, going on to become the founder of dozens of Jewish institutions. As a child, Jacob took on mythological proportions and I mostly heard him referred to in the context of some Jewish institution or hospital or another of which he helped found. But in the stories of Jacob, also known as Jay R, he had no personality, no desires, no dreams, hopes or fears. He was just the millionaire immigrant ancestor, of which many of his children and grandchildren bore his name, including my father.

Bessie (daughter of Tzvi Hirsch) Poretsky Rutstein (1888-1947) and Jacob (son of Dov Behr)  Rutstein (1878-1946), New York, circa 1909. Both were children of Tolochin

 

I also knew two other pieces of information: First that Jacob had five children and they were Bertha, Dora, Nathan, Milton my grandfather, and Rita - all of whom went their separate ways in life. Like the vast majority of American families none of the descendents of Jacob are close to one another. Members of our small clan, especially of my generation, only meet at funerals, if at all.  The second fact was that my great-grandmother, Bessie or Basha Poretsky, was also born in Tolochin and was a daughter of a Rabbi and great Torah scholar – Rabbi Tzvi Hirsch Poretsky.  Bessie’s voice, like many other woman’s voices and narratives throughout history were mostly lost.

 

 

Rabbi Tzvi Hirsch Poretzkyn (b.1857, d.1933) and wife Esther Dubrow Poretzkyn (b.1860, d. 1941) circa 1920.

 

 

It was with this scant information that I began my journey some six years ago. As a sophomore in high school I remember feeling that by discovering my family roots and learning about my ancestors I would somehow be paying homage to the people for whom I am a legacy. As a member of the internet generation I immediately began my search on the internet and found my way to www.jewishgen.org and joined the Belarus SIG mailing list as well as other groups on Jewishgen. I began to track down long lost relatives hoping that they could share their version of the family history in order formulate a holistic picture of events and personalities. The representation that I was eventually able to formulate is in a large part thanks to them.

 

Thanks to Jewishgen I found two long lost cousins, also children of Tolochin, one from the Poretsky side of the family and one from the Rutstein side of my family - both of whom have been invaluable in my research. I would like to thank my cousins Nancy Wexler (of the Rutstein family) for spending hours showing me around the New York City archives and to Gail Haymowitz (of the Poretzky family) for her loving support, guidance and direction. Her memoir of her journey to Tolochin can also be found on the Jewishgen website.  Through the sharing of information we were all able to fill the holes in one another’s research and understanding of events. Thank you.

Preparing for the journey

 

After beginning my research I was able to gather scores of disjointed facts, stories from various cousins and artifacts such as pictures and old Yiddish letters. All this information became critical as it helped me reconstruct the larger family puzzle. I decided that I wanted to visit the shtetls from which my family came.  I expressed the idea on the Belarus SIG and received many e-mails containing wonderful suggestions, tips and experiences from others that have or have considered making the journey. One of the most important e-mail correspondences was from Yuri Dorn, the Coordinator of Jewish Research Group and over the next year and half we corresponded about the possibility of my visit to Belarus.  Yuri was great to correspond with; his knowledge and resources are vast and even extends to knowledge of the individual Jewish families that remain in the various towns and villages!

 

However, for various reasons, it was not viable for me to simply pick myself up and travel to Belarus to see the shtetls my family came from. So when months later I was accepted as a member of a student delegation to the Ukraine I decided that after my mission I would take this opportunity to visit Russia and Belarus since I was already in the “neighborhood.” With several months warning I told Yuri the dates and he was able to reasonably secure me a letter of invitation to Belarus. The letter of invitation is necessary before any Belarusian embassy or consulate will grant someone a visa to enter Belarus. If it wasn’t for that letter I would have had to go through a travel company, many of which charge an additional fifty or sixty dollars just for the letter. After receiving the invitation letter I sent my passport, letter of invitation, and flight itinerary to the Embassy of Belarus in Washington, DC. After dealing with the embassies of three Eastern European Countries that summer I can tell you that my experience with the Embassy of Belarus was the easiest and (unlike Russia) the visa was reasonably priced and the staff was friendly (as Eastern-Europeans bureaucrats go).

 

I would like to point out that Yuri was even better able to help me with the logistics in Belarus because I knew what I wanted and he helped me fill in the details. For example, I didn’t want to hire a personal driver from Minsk to Orsha but rather to take the train. Why? First, because it’s cheaper but I also wanted to follow and live in the footsteps of my ancestors as much as possible and I was certain that when they left Belarus they didn’t jump in their car and drive to Minsk to catch the next flight to New York. I also knew that I didn’t need a guide as much as I needed a translator because I wanted to speak and interview as many people as possible in the shtetls I went to. Being specific, doing my homework, and having a game plan made things easier for everyone and helped me make the most of my time in Belarus. I would suggest that others do the same before traveling. Going to Belarus or anywhere else without a game plan can result in an inefficient use of time and resources.

 

            There are things that, in hindsight, I wish I had done but I didn’t actually do. I wish I had brought more small gifts such as general Americana and general medicine such as Tylenol or Advil. I also wish I had brought more cash and fewer travelers checks.  Additionally, and I have no real excuse for not doing this, I wish I had followed the advice of Marcia Loeb of California to write to the Mayor of Tolochin in advance. However, I didn’t leave myself enough time to have the letter translated into Russian and at the same time give the locals enough time to prepare. In an e-mail she sent to me on May 30th, 2004 Marcia Loeb writes, “Two years ago my brother and I visited Tolochin…It was an experience I will never forget! We wrote in advance (in Russian) to the Chairman of the town…we had a wonderful tour, and when we had finished, we were met on the steps by a delegation with flowers. In the delegation was the oldest Jewish citizen of the town…the mayor thanked us for coming and said, “Many people have left our little town, but you are the {only} ones who have ever come back.” Referring to a Jewish family that hosted them she writes, “The warmth and love that was bestowed upon us that day will say with us forever.” I wish I had followed her smart advice but despite not doing so I still had a tremendous adventure.

 

            In addition, Shelly Dardashti of Tel-Aviv was able to direct me to a few key contacts within Belarus, one of them being Yuri Dorn. In turn, Yuri Dorn was able to give me many important details about the current state of Tolochin. In an email sent by Yuri Dorn on June 1st 2004, he states the following:

 

“At present 23 Jews live in Tolochin. Most of them are elderly people and live in mixed families. A functioning pre-war Jewish cemetery was preserved in the town. The location is to the left from the road from Tolochin to village Slobodka. Unfortunately, people began to make Christian burials at the cemetery. The building of a synagogue was not preserved – it was destroyed during the war. During the Holocaust in Tolochin 2000 Jews were murdered. The place of execution is situated out of the town, not far from the village Raitsy. All the Jews were killed within a day on March 13, 1942. In 1960s a memorial was erected at this place. The details of ghetto life and the facts of Jews execution one may find in the local museum at Pionerskaya ST., 4. The director is Pikulik Irina. The museum is located in the house that before the war belonged to a rich Jew, who was an owner of a blowing shop. I believe it will be useful to visit this museum. I also believe that meeting with people who can tell different facts about pre-war Jewish life in Tolochin probably will help you to gather necessary information.”

           

I also went to local US archives and looked up ship manifests from Ellis Island which sometimes contain former addresses but at the very least contain important clues that in my case blossomed once I arrived in Belarus. A lot of this can be done online and via snail mail. Also, as per the suggestions of the Jewishgen website, I brought old pictures, letters, and research documents which proved to be handy. I also familiarized myself on a basic level with the Cyrillic alphabet which later also proved to be useful and which is really easy to learn.

 

Minsk, Belarus

 

After spending several weeks in the Ukraine and Russia and witnessing the tremendous Jewish religious and cultural renaissance occurring in the Former Soviet Union, a renaissance of truly historical proportions, I promised myself that when I arrived in Belarus that I would come not just to seek out the dead but to learn and experience the living. Belarus is not just one big graveyard of the Jewish people. The Jewish people of Belarus still live! The descendants of our cousins who did not leave Belarus, those that remained behind are still there – in the tens of thousands – and they need us. This renaissance that I observed could not have taken place and can not continue to take place without the help of the world Jewish community. I implore those who honor and cherish the dead to give the same respect to the living. In Belarus, as in other places of the FSU, they need Jewish teachers, they need our love, our bodies, our knowledge, our donations – they just need us.  

 

            I arrived on Sunday evening in Minsk from Moscow, and Leonid, the driver, was waiting (with a sign with my name on it) to pick me up at the airport. Leonid was very friendly and helpful. All the logistics had been prepared by Yuri in advance and the driver took me back to the synagogue and religious community center where Yuri is the director and where I spent the night. The great thing about the spending time at the center was that I was able to experience first hand the renaissance of religious Jewish life occurring in Minsk. The center has educational classes on Judaism for both adults and children as well as a summer camp for local children. Months later, back in the United States, I met a girl named Yael or Tanya, a native of Minsk and a graduate of Yeshiva University and who is now a student at law school at the University of Michigan. She told me that she was first exposed to Judaism at the summer camps managed by the Religious Jewish Communities of Belarus.  She told me what an important role they have in reviving Jewish life.

 

Some of the regions in which the Union of Religious Jewish Congregations operates in Belarus..

 

At the center there are daily prayer services in the adjacent synagogue and the center was able to provide me with kosher food. Everyone I met there was friendly and curious and it was very meaningful to receive an aliyah during shachris while being in Minsk, Belarus! I also thought it symbolic that on the day I arrived the kehal happened to daven Hallel because of the yomim noarim. After shachris I was escorted around the building by one of the local Yeshiva students. This center houses the only Yeshiva in Minsk and the closest thing Minsk has to a kosher restaurant.  I also met a young man, just slightly older then myself from Israel. He had come to Minsk to volunteer for a year as part of a fellowship, a shlichut, in coordination with the Jewish Agency. I know from past experience that the Israeli government sends similar individuals to isolated Jewish communities around the world, including the United States. We spoke in Hebrew but he was also fluent in Russian. He told me that his job was to run religious programming for the children at this center and to organize the youth for Jewish oriented events. It is educational programs like these that in my opinion will save what is left of Byelorussian Jewry.

 

After breakfast, I finally met Yuri after having exchanged so many e-mails. He was friendly, compassionate yet always to the point of business – just how I like things. Yuri escorted me back to his office from the dining hall to fill me in on the rest of the details of the trip which he arranged on my behalf. His office was filled with photographs of great Belarusian Jewish leaders and Rabbis. It was through the pictures and maps on the wall that I first slowly became conscious of the fact that Byelorussian Jews were Litvaks and were strongly associated with the Lithuanian tradition.  I also learned a little bit about Yuri as an individual. Yuri is a businessman and travels back and forth between Cleveland, where his family is located, and Minsk. I could really intuit from being there how important the institution and its purpose were to him.  Yuri mentioned that he and other Byelorussian Jews are trying to have the original Minsk synagogue restored to the Jewish community. The state now possesses the synagogue which is now home the national theater. I presume that the state seized the property during the soviet era. Soon my translator, a Jewish university student, arrived. Yuri informed Dmitry that he was to briefly show me around Minsk in the morning before the one-o’clock train heading for Orsha arrived.

 

Dmitry, my translator and new friend, along with Leonid took me to two memorial sites for Jewish victims of the Nazi Holocaust.

 

Memorial sites to victims of the Holocaust in Minsk, Belarus.

If my memory serves me correctly the site of this memorial was one of the places where the Jewish population of Minsk was massacred by the Nazis when they invaded and destroyed Minsk in nineteen-hundred and forty-two. During the war this location was outside the city limits and the population was forcibly marched outside the city until they were forced into the above ravine before being slaughtered. The statues above are symbolic of that crime. Dmitry also informed me that most citizens of Minsk are not aware of this memorial site and that in general education about the holocaust is not a priority or on the agenda in Byelorussian society. It’s not something that they “care about.”

 

Dmitry and I were also taken to the local JDC building in Minsk. The JDC provides essential services all over Eastern Europe.  Like the other JDC buildings I saw in Ukraine and Russia this center provided medical attention to elderly Jews, family services and childcare as well as other forms of social support. It had computer labs for students and was a conference and meeting center for various local Jewish groups. It was also the local headquarters for the JDC and their operations in Belarus. The JDC is World Jewry’s best kept secret and really fulfills an important niche in Eastern-Europe. Additionally, as far as genealogists are concerned, the JDC building is also the location of the Jewish Museum in Minsk. The museum director is Dr. Inna Gerasimova and she is an expert on the history of Byelorussian Jewry. I just happened to meet her while I was talking amongst some of the elderly, asking them where they were from, gathering some details and exchanging formalities in Yiddish.

 

Inna was very excited to meet and speak with me and I gave her some information about my family history which she will add to her database. For researchers hoping to learn more about their family history or about a town or region she may be a good person to speak with. She has access to Yiddish papers and archives going back to the turn of the century. However, she does not speak English and one would only be able to communicate with her only in Russian, Hebrew or Yiddish. We spoke mostly in Hebrew with Dmitry helping me when either of our knowledge of Hebrew failed us.  She is currently working on various projects right now, including documenting Jewish participation in the general resistance\partisan movement and Jewish resistance to being murdered by the Nazis. She is trying to combat the myth that the Jews behaved passively during World War-Two and wants to publish a book for the general Byelorussian public but is unable to do so due to lack of funding. We decided that we would meet again on the late evening on Wednesday, the day before I left the country. She kept her word and days later we met in the evening and she gave me a personal tour around the museum and we arranged for an elderly Jew there to translate my Yiddish letters.

 

 

The American Joint Distribution Committee center in Minsk, Belarus.

Engaged in conversation with Dr. Inna Gerasimova, I foolishly lost track of the time on early Monday morning. Her knowledge about the region, her ability to tell me tidbits of information about what was contained in my family letters, some a century old, captivated me. Dmitry kindly pointed out that we better leave soon unless I was going to miss my one o’clock train to Orsha. Dmitry and I excused ourselves and promised to return another time. We quickly grabbed our things and Leonid who was waiting seemed a bit apprehensive constantly saying that we weren’t going to make the train and would have to catch the next one. I opened my wallet to get the money ready for the train when Dmitry pointed out that I had the wrong type of rubles. “Oy vey” was the only thought going through my mind. There was some conversation between the driver and Dmitry and it was suggested that we go find a place to change my dollars into Belarusian rubles and catch the next train. However, realizing that if we did that there was no way I could make my train; I insisted we try to make this one without having the proper currency. I was hoping (and I knew) in the back of my mind that somebody would take some of my US dollars.

At the Orsha train station. From Orsha to Minsk

We arrived at the mini train station and Dmitry tried to negotiate with one of the cashiers to accept US dollars but she refused. Seeing the train pull into the station we started running towards the train with our bags bouncing over our shoulders. I was hoping that I could pay the more expensive fee by paying on the train like they have in the United States. I asked Dmitry and he confirmed that there was such an option in Belarus. We successfully got on the train successfully and put our bags down and waited for the conductor. Many different thoughts were going through my head. Part of me wished I had taken Yuri up on his initial suggestion of a private car from Minsk to Orsha. Or at the very least I was thinking maybe I should have taken the first class train instead of the “regular” train. Looking around the train compartments reminded me of some of the run down New Jersey transit cars. There were people scattered at different ends of the cabin each looking out into the abyss with angry looks on their face. I didn’t feel scared or threatened by these looks because they were directed inward. However, I was just curious and confused. Why were people so angry?

 

            I asked Dmitry why and I don’t think I shall ever forget his answer. He told me that “people work really really hard and they receive nothing in return…people are poor and they are trying to figure out where their next meal will come from.” As he spoke the train conductor stumbled past us, “You see” he said, “look at her! She is drunk.” He proceeded to tell me how someone like his mother, a university educated women, works two jobs just to make ends meet. Yet this uneducated, drunken conductor and his mother make the same salary. When I asked him about the political situation or why things were the way they were he hushed me up. It was not something he wanted to talk about and I gathered that was because we were in a public place. I realized I had committed a significant fauxpas. In an unrelated topic of discussion, Dmitry also mentioned that because people are so poor, out of compassion the conductors don’t always check everyone’s ticket.

 

Throughout the early parts of the train ride various conductors walked through the cabin until one finally stopped to ask us for our tickets.  Dmitry explained to her that we only had dollars and not Byelorussian rubles. She said that we would have to ask some of the other passengers to exchange the money for us. Dmitry uncomfortably went to a few of the passengers and asked them if they were willing but nobody would touch the dollars because they thought they were counterfeit or that we were running some sort of scam. The conductor said she would come back later in the journey to collect our fare. I instinctively knew that the exchange between us was a charade. I knew that in the end we would pay off the conductor to accept our dollars and that she would accept what was essentially a bribe. Echoing my thoughts Dmitry told me that the only reason she didn’t accept the money initially was because she thought that we were members of the secret police, the KGB. I sensed that she was thinking something along those lines from the way she looked at us, trying to size us up and our story. In the end, hours later, she did accept our dollars. In fact, her friend came in on the deal with her. They first spoke amongst themselves as to what would be an appropriate “deal.” The conductor then told Dmitry that she wanted five dollars. My largest bill was ten dollars and so I just gave that to her. They looked at each other and they looked at us stunned as it was twice what they requested. They then quickly left the cabin all giddy with their booty and they didn’t even give us any tickets. After they left, I asked Dmitry how much ten dollars was in terms of buying power and in proportion to daily wages. He told me that ten dollars was about two days worth of wages. It probably wasn’t the most intelligent thing to do by putting myself in that situation but it sure was an interesting experience.

An artificial lake in the Minsk City Center

At some point during the first half of the day it came up in conversation that Dimitry did not know Hebrew and so I offered to teach him. And so it was that on the train ride from Minsk to Orsha, from the 21st century to the 18th, that Dmitry and I sat together and learned the language of yore. We spent a large proportion of the train ride using my notebook as a means of learning the Hebrew alphabet. Every time we would take a break and look up from our notebook and peek outside the train window we were even more enveloped in rural territory. Minsk is a nice and charming city which seems to be developing nicely but for every mile outside the limits of Minsk that one travels, one travels to less and less developed territory. The more outside of Minsk someone is, the less and less industry there is, the less and less phones polls, and the less modern are the buildings. After spending some time talking, and learning Hebrew, we both peered out the train windows slowly traveling to a different time and place.

Orsha, Belarus

 

            We arrived in the early evening into the city center of Orsha after having crossed the Orsha River.

 

The Orsha River at the turn of the 20th century

The train station was one of the only buildings that was not destroyed by the Germans in both World Wars and is a glimpse to the official architecture that existed during the turn of the century.

Near the Orsha train station at the turn of the 20th century.

 

Waiting at the train station was IlyaYehudaHalfey and Misha “Michael” Ginsberg who took me to the home of one of the members of the Jewish community of Orsha - Lazar and Tamara Tavger. I placed my things down in their home and we then went to one of the local markets where we purchased, soviet style, some fruits, vegetables, milk and other miscellaneous stuff that I could find to suit my dietary needs. We then went back to their home and sat together, talking, while eating dinner. Lazar and Tamara were generous enough to open up their home to other members of the local Jewish community in Belarus and allow them to use the home as a “community center” where people can conduct some sort of religious services and to gather socially.

IlyaYehudaHalfey and Misha “Michael” Ginsberg at the Orsha train- station.

Ilya related some of the oral history he had received from his grandfather about how life once was in Orsha. Orsha was once a very small town but over time grew to be a major center of Jewish life. Orsha was a well traveled transportation center with major connecting points for trade and commerce. All this contributed to Orsha being a cultural center. In nineteen twenty-four the railroad reached it peak of development which improved the life of the town. There were Jewish schools and people from nearby towns would come to study at them. Orsha was the “place to be” and was mostly Jewish. Orsha remained a vibrant Jewish center until it was destroyed by the Nazis in the Holocaust. Ilya related that he had a strong Jewish upbringing and that he never heard a word of Russian until the age of fourteen because he lived with his grandparents whom only spoke Yiddish. He eventually learned Russian in school where he often got in trouble because he would write in Yiddish. Only recently did he start to relearn the religion that he said was taken from him.

 

The home of Lazar and Tamara Tavger and the Religious center in Orsha, Belarus.

At some point in the evening we went to the home of a certain Boris, one of oldest members of the Jewish community in Orsha (1). I told him who I was and why I had come from the United States and that I was related to various families that had lived in Orsha before the war. He recognized the surname name of one those families, the Epsteins. From talking with him and with other members of the Jewish community I am of the impression that the Epstein family was a large clan or tribe amongst the Jewish community in the region and that the vast majority of them have moved to Israel in the last fifteen years.

 

Boris and I at his home in Orsha, Belarus.

Boris spoke of life in the city before the Second World War. Orsha was a center of Jewish culture and contained two Jewish theaters and a tremendous amount of Jews. There were four primary synagogues. The founder of the Lubavitch Chasidic movement Shenur Zalman of Liady lived not more then thirty kilometers from the city. Thus there was some Chasidic influence on the city. Boris says that before the wars people decided on which synagogue they would attend based on class and or their professions.  Boris says there were three children in his family and the family worked in the tiles business. His family “was taken to war fighting” and his father was in the army.

Before the Russian Revolution Jews had the worst of jobs, working for the lowest wages and in the most demeaning positions. Boris recalls that his mother and father would go to synagogue but they didn’t pray at synagogue they “just went to go.” However, everyone celebrated all the holidays and it was a big to do in town as everyone came together.  Boris recalls that before the Second World War Jewish and non-Jewish kids played together and that anti-Semitism was minimal. His mother didn’t work and his father worked with roof tiles and metals. After the war there was a great demand for someone proficient in metal and roof making. Thus business was good for someone like his father.  Boris’s father worked with the highest quality metals including those that are used in a kitchen such as metals for cooking and for pots. Boris grandparents worked in a small (home) factory which was a family business. Children were all working full time by the age of sixteen. All or most of the shops in Orsha were owned by Jews and Jews dominated the metal working industry and manufacturing. The Jews of Orsha were the primary advocates of culture and arts in the town. 

 

The great pogroms of nineteen fourteen, which occurred before the revolution, were mostly concentrated in the small towns around Orsha. There were big pogroms in all the small shtetls, such as Tolochin, and there was fear that the pogroms would spread from village to village. There were cases in which Jews protected their property, and organized themselves into self defense groups. Boris posits that things were easier for Jews in the smaller towns than in the larger ones such as Orsha as many of the smaller contained mostly Jews. Boris recalls a story that he heard of when some of the local peasants got drunk and started harassing and attacking Jews. One of the strong Jews, a gibbur, came out {presumably to defend himself or other Jews} and killed one of the non-Jews by punching him. Subsequently, in fear of retaliation towards this gibbur, the entire Jewish community united and gathered money from all the Jewish members of the town until there was enough money to send this gibbur to America.

During the cold war it was forbidden for Jews to practice their religion. However, members of the community still wanted to observe the Jewish holidays especially Passover. Many others were still afraid because if they were caught celebrating Judaism the police would arrest them and take them away. Boris and his brother, who now lives in Israel, risked their lives to bake matzot during this time period. Boris and his brother would secretly bake matzot while someone watched out for police, spies, or if anyone suspicious may be approaching his home.

The above is the  matzah machine that Boris and his brother used to make matazot secretly during the Soviet Era. The matza machine is now located in the Jewish Museum in Minsk and is under the care of Dr. Inna Gerasimova

The two pictures above represent the location where Boris and his brother baked matzot in secret

After we left Boris’s home, we didn’t really do anything else that evening. We did briefly visit the cemetery but we decided to leave a more comprehensive visit for the morning. I was told that it isn’t safe to travel, even for Byelorussians, around Orsha in the evening. So instead Dmitry and I spent the evening indoors, read, learned some more Hebrew and got to know one another.

 

I woke up early the next morning, the sixth of September, just towards the end of sunrise. There was this misty, cool and fresh feeling to the air which I haven’t experienced before. There was no heating in the home and I had only my covers to keep me warm from the chilly Byelorussian night. Waking up in such a home and walking out into the backyard with an open field, breathing the fresh air and heading towards the outhouse was a very surreal experience. It allowed me to place myself in the shoes of those that left this land a century ago, it triggered my imagination and it made me intimately aware of the living conditions in which they likely lived. During the night when I went to use the restroom there were no lights. I had to use my palm pilot light to direct me to where I need to go. I think it’s hard for people in our society to imagine not having light at night and the kind of feelings that brings. I am so glad that I didn’t stay in the local hotel.   

Top: A washing station, a place for winter wood storage and perhaps what is a workhouse. Bottom: The inside and outside of the outhouse that we used

I understand from discussions with people that indoor plumbing is still rare. In the last few decades people have begun running pipes from the main water network to their property in order to have running water. Prior to that time people had their own private wells that they used for water. Presumably one would use this running water from a well or from the pipes outside their homes to cook and to draw a bath. The yard also contained a large backyard, a fallow field and what looked like some fruit trees. I got the impression that the backyard of the home was more or less representative of other homes in the area. However, I would say that this property seemed to be on the larger side.

Left: A stand filled with what looks like squash near the garden in the backyard. To the right was a large field which appears to be fallow

After eating breakfast, we walked to the local cemetery which wasn’t very far from where I was staying. The cemetery is located on a top of a hill which has historically made it very difficult to bury people during the winter months when there was heavy snow. I was told that the Byelorussian government, beginning from Soviet times all way through the present, has had a bad habit of building on top of and or destroying Jewish cemeteries. The Orsha cemetery is one of the select Jewish cemeteries that haven’t been built upon or destroyed. That is because over the years the cemetery has become a mixed cemetery with both Jews and non-Jews being buried there. Destroying the cemetery would create tremendous opposition amongst the non-Jewish members of the city. However, originally the cemetery was only Jewish.   

A Randomly chosen grave site in the Orsha Jewish cemetery. The tomb stone reads “An old man, simple and straight {with G-d} – Chaim Yitzchok the son of Tzion PATZARSKI

I took some random photographs of grave sites because I knew they would be of some interest to some other researchers. Most of the tombstones that date before the second war have been destroyed by man and nature but mostly by man. However, there are a handful of tombstones that weren’t destroyed by the Nazis or by local vandals that date before the revolution. Most of these tombstones are faded and it’s very hard to make what is written on them. One can see the remains of many tombstones that jut out of the ground several inches.

Two Jewish gravesites, one partially destroyed, which date from before the Russian Revolution.

Towards the back of the cemetery there is tall grass that has since grown on top of many of the grave sites. There are tombstones buried amongst the thick shrubs. In some of the newer sections of the cemetery one can see the introduction of non-Jewish burial sites. On the outskirts of the cemetery there are some shepherds and shepherdesses who graze their cattle. I wouldn’t be surprised if occasionally some of their flock wandered off and entered the cemetery to graze. There seems to be no clear designation of the grazing area of where the cemetery begins or ends. This is mostly true in the most northeastern part of the cemetery.

A shepherdess along with her flock grazing on the border of the Orsha Jewish cemetery

A memorial to victims of the Nazi-Fascists at the back of the Orsha cemetery. This memorial, like many others in Belarus, does not mention that the primary victims of the Nazis were Jews. Some locals feel that Belarus has not done enough to educate its population about the unique Jewish experience in the tragedy of the Nazi Holocaust

Belarus and indeed much of Eastern Europe are filled with things that may appear unusual to many Westerners. However, one thing which reminded me that I was in Eastern Europe, just in case I forgot, is the following story which I was told in reference to the below grave. Orsha is known as a center of organized crime and several years ago one of the major mob bosses was assassinated. Though he was not Jewish he was buried in the Jewish cemetery in the following grave plot.

Grave site of a former Orsha mob boss in the Jewish cemetery of Orsha.

However, after he was buried there, people would come to his grave site and desecrate his tombstone. Sometimes they would unbury his grave and leave his body out in the open. So in order to prevent this, the family built a booth directly across from his grave. The booth is capable of housing a full time security guard in order to protect the grave site of this mob boss from vandals.

The security booth which is home to a security officer hired to protect the grave site of one of Orsha’s former mob bosses.

After we finished visiting the cemetery we went to the JDC offices in Orsha. What was special about this JDC center was that it seemed that it had both a strong institutional framework, strong social bonds and at the same time managed to create the feeling that this was a second home for many of its constituents. It had a very homey feeling to it. The Union of religious Communities in Minsk also had this feeling.

 

Inside there was a small crowd of people trying on clothing. The JDC had recently sent a shipment of mostly new clothing to the local members of the community and people were happily trying some of them on, some suggesting clothing to their friends and replacing some of their old tattered clothing. One of the people that I met at the center was said to be very knowledgeable about the history of Jews in Orsha. His name was Boris “Baruch” Reitsen. Boris and I went outside to the backyard where I interviewed him. We would have spoken longer but we needed enough time to drive out to Tolochin.

Boris told me that the town of Dubrovna, north east of Orsha, was a large Chasidic capital and that part of his family was from that town. He told me that his grandfather paved roads for a living. His father worked in Dubrovna in one of the early factories that came to the region. As a child he recalls hearing that there were pogroms and that they occurred frequently until the nineteen-thirties. He said there was a beautiful stone tree monument\tomb stone in the cemetery which dates to the time of one of the early pogroms from the time of the revolution. During the pogroms some of the non-Jews would help certain Jewish families by hiding them. However, they were often tattled on by other non-Jewish families and those Jews hidden would then be discovered and subsequently killed. I believe that this is the tomb stone of which Boris was referring.

A monument or tombstone located in the Orsha Jewish cemetery possibly dating to the time of one of the great pogroms from the beginning of the 20th century

If I recall correctly, the above monument is in memory of an entire family (or all the children of a family) that perished in these pogroms. If you focus in on the above photograph you can see the names of various people of one family; all appear to have been murdered in the pogroms. It was these pogroms from the turn of the century through the revolution that contributed to Jewish emigration to the West.

 

Boris conveyed how during the days leading up the revolution people were disappointed and disenfranchised with the Russian Empire especially the Jews. In the Jewish community there was a large gap between rich and poor. Sometimes the poor Jews would steal or raid from rich Jews. The poor Jews were angry and alienated from the Jewish establishment and were not satisfied with their lot. Boris believes that often poor Jews would complain to poor non-Jews about their own rich Jews. Boris thinks that could have influenced some of the poor non-Jews to engage in raids on Jews as a whole. However, unlike the non-Jews, Jews would never murder or commit violence against one another. Boris says that there were “middle class” Jews but that really just meant making enough to have the most “basic of necessities.” I should interject that “middle class” in Orsha standards would probably be considered way below the poverty line in the United States. I posit that middle class in places like Orsha at the turn of the century meant that the family was not starving and maybe had a few rubles saved up for emergencies.

 

Boris told me that his uncles were in the Russian army and that his Aunts went to study in Minsk. One of his aunts eventually died in the (German?) bombings of Minsk. Boris told me that he never went to cheder or to any Jewish school but that two of his brothers did before the war (2).

Boris Reitsen at the JDC center in Orsha, Belarus.

During the Second World War, Boris and his family left Orsha and fled to Siberia. When he returned to Orsha the town was absolutely destroyed by the fascists (Nazis). He lived in a barn until he was able to rebuild his life. The remaining Jews worked very hard to improve their lot but they could not get ahead because they were Jews. This was true especially when it came to university. As a result many Jews changed their nationalities on their passport and their surnames so that they could get ahead in life. That is why today official estimates of the Jewish populations in Belarus are much lower than the actual Jewish population. Physical conditions did improve slightly after the war with the massive introduction of electricity. Cars also started to appear in the region and running water replaced the personal wells which most people used.

 

Like before the war, people after the war were afraid to announce that they were Jews and lived their Jewish lives discretely. Like before the war there was lots of bickering and fighting in the Jewish community, “two Jews, three opinions” Boris said chuckling.   People were afraid to celebrate their Jewish identity in Orsha though many of them continued to observe Jewish holidays, mitzvoth and other rites. Boris stated that everyone was proud of the secret baking of matzah which occurred during the Soviet era.

Dmitry standing outside what I have dubbed the ‘shtetle mobile’. We used this car to drive around Orsha and from Orsha to Tolochin.

 

Tolochin, Mogilev Guberniya, Belarus